Horace p



" To all whom it may concern:

- asiat sala ,stent f ottime.

Hormon P. HAYWARD, or FITOHBURG, MASSACHUSETTS, AssreNoR HENRY C, MAHURIN, IRA HOLT, LEVI SHERWIN, LUTHER J. BROVN, AND CHARLES N. WILSOKVOF SAME FLACE.

`Letters Patent N 97,195, dated lliure/mbar 23, 18.6.9.

IMPROVEMENT IN MODE OI' CUTTING- SHOES.

The Schedule referred to in these Letters Patent and making part of the same.

Beit known that I, HORACE P.' HAYWARD, of -Fitchburg, ill the county of Worcester, and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in the llannfaotureof Boots and Shoes; and I do hereby declare tllat the-ibllowinghtaken in connection vwith the drawings, which accompany and form rpart of this' specification, is a description of myinvelltipn, suiiicierlt to enable those skilled in the art to practise it.4

My invention relates to an improvement in the manufacture of that class of boots and shoes, in which the vamp or upper is formed of one principal piece of leather, there being a comparatively very small or sortof gorngpiece insertedv to Pcomplete the top of `the leg on one side of theboot. I,

Heretof'ore, in cutting out such uppers, it has been customary to out a straightvslit in the front of the vamp, from the bottom of the` lacingslit up to the ankle. In lasting such an lippenl it is impossible to draw the leather smoothly downupon the last, and consequently impossible Yto .make a perfectly-fitting boot or shoe. v g v i The object otfnlypresent improvement, is to remedy this defect, and 1I accomplish this by departing from the centre line of the upper at the bottom ot' theslit,\

making an acute-angled slit, as seen in the accompanying drawings at Figurel. It sin this construction of a bootoll shoetllat nly invention consists.

The drawings represent at lig. l, the mainv piece of leather of the upper, ont out in accordance with my improvement, and at Figure 2, the insertion piece that is stitched to tlle'leg tov complete the upper.

Figure 3 shows a boot embodying the imp1ovement. i

v af denotes the upper, which being first-cut from the skin in the form represented by th contour lines b` c d e f 4g b, has then a slit cut, which, commencing on the centre lille e b at the point h, which point denotes the bottom of the lacing-slit, departs from said straight Y line at an acute angle thereto, as shown at the intersection of the line h Awith the line c 11. p

As before observed, it llas been customary to out the slit straight from the point It up to a point which comesupon the ankle, and this left a straight edge to he drawn over' the cone of the last, with-which edge it is impossible to bring the upper, so made in one drawing of the boot atiig. 3, the gore-piece l being made with a long tongue, on, iitting into the opening made on one side by this slit, the main part of the piece finishing out the leg, as seen at'fig. 3. Cut in Athis manner, the upper takes less stock, and makes a better and more saleable hoot.-

Theilnprovement 'is applicableto many ol'tlle various styles of boots and shoes, suchas high-top balmorals,

strap shoes, Oxford ties, &c.,and`with all suclibootsand I shoes, makes a very neat and 'symmetrical line at the top ofthe edge formed by socuttingthe slit. l

It will be observed that no part of tlleleathe'r is cut out and wasted anywhere along the line In k c, and also that the contour of the line h t, lenders it unnecessary to cut away any portion of the piece to insure va gl'acefulliue.

lo'make a shoe-with a higher ankle or leg than that sllown at iig. l, the out, instead of running from k to A(l, mayrlln from k to u, as, shown by fine dotted lines ill iig. l, the essential feature in all cases beingv the angular cut at It. 4

I claim `the main piece of a shoe-upper, cut in the manner showngin viig. 1, that is, the lacing-slit commencing at -h ill the cent-re line of the upper, and run-. ning at all angle thereto, substantially as described.

Also, a boot or shoe, havingits upper formed of one main piece a, and the small Agering-piece l, when the main piece is cut with the lmontait-slit, commencing at 4h in the centre lille ofpiece a, and running at an angle thereto, substantially as described.

HORACE IP. HAYWARD. Titnessesz 4 SI'LAS DEAN, H. C. Mslrulilx.

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